In the last years we travelled a lot to westerly influenced countries like the US, Spain and New Zealand to find unclimbed rock but this time we felt we should explore more unfamiliar cultures, something new, a trip of not knowing what tomorrow would bring! Southern Africa was our match and we started to look for climbing destinations in Zimbabwe, Mozambique or Namibia.
Already in 2011, we shared a wonderful time with a group of climbers from South Africa who praised the great climbing potential in Zimbabwe. When we found out a friend of ours, Jörg Helfrich, had already been there and was keen to go back, our destination was finally set. Nils Ohlendorf came along to capture pictures. Two weeks before our flight, a military coup and civil protest forced President Mugabe to step down. It is not the most convenient thing to happen to start packing and to see your travel destination on the news − with tanks and troops on the street! Several locals assured us that everything is going to be alright and it turned out to be true. When we arrived, we felt the spirit of optimism!
During our three weeks trip we found tons of granite rock; from small boulders to 300-meter pinnacles and domes with perfect cracks. We discovered the mountains north of Harare and South of Bulawayo, which are the two main cities in the country. Basically, we were looking for rock formations we had seen on google maps and on pictures online. Members of the Zimbabwe Alpine Club generously shared information and pictures of unclimbed rocks in exchange for some lead climbing instructions and cam placing exercises on their local crag in Harare.
Most of the 31 pitches we put up are trad routes between one and five pitches; our longest first ascent is around 250 meters, seven pitches and grades up to french 7b+ (“Hedwig” at Beje). We even left an open project at Matobo National park: a massively overhanging clean crack that might go around 8a+ on trad gear. We also bolted a couple of sport climbs between 6a+ and 7c+ at “Bare mountain” and at the “Playground Crag” at Longueville Farm.
We called a rental Landcruiser “home” and we slept in tents underneath the rock. Although we would go by European standards
probably as "dirtbags", but at least as life artists, we were an attraction; climbing supposedly indomitable rocks with too
small shoes and strange noises (drill!). The local kids can do it barefoot!
While the adults (rightly so?) could not see too much sense in our activities, the children were all the more happy about the hustle and bustle we were having. They marvelled at our ropes and cams, quickly learned our names and called them up and down the forest. Almost everybody speaks English and communicating was never a problem in Zimbabwe.
And yet, despite the wealth of climbing gear, clothing and technology, we managed to appear as uncivilized vagabonds. We lived in tents and cooked on the floor, while the local families cook in their sweetened kitchen houses by the fire and go to bed in small brick houses. “Wash your feet! Get up earlier!” Admonished Rosemarie, the village chief. We were smiling and kept working on our climbing projects.
It was heart-warming to be welcomed so friendly by local people and there is not much we can do but to say thank you. In the near future, with a bit of luck, others will get the same pleasure when they visit a small climbing campsite, operated by the village elder Rosemarie.
Where, When, How in Zimbabwe
Places to stay: In Harare we stayed with Luis van Aard (kizingocottages.com), in Bulawayo on
Longueville Farm (longuevillesanctuary.com). Sleeping outdoors without a tent is not
advisable because of mosquitoes and scorpions. Wild camping is hardly possible, but you can respectfully approach local farmers and ask for a place to stay, they will most likely help you out
with a spot to pitch a tent.
Money: Currency is US dollars and so-called bond notes (Zimbabwe dollars). But you hardly get cash at cash machines, so you should bring money (small bills, since there is hardly any change).
From time to time you can pay with EC or VISA (gas stations, supermarket).
Car and shopping: Rental cars (4WD necessary!) con be found at shumbashaba.com. Always refuel when there is fuel! Mosquito spray, mosquito net, sunscreen and medicines must be brought along, just as climbing material. Local vegetables can be bought along the road and all villages and cities have supermarkets for food.
Health: There is no functioning public health system. But as a visitor you can become a short time member of the private rescue organization "Mars" for around $ 3.50 per day. They offer medical
care, road patient transport and transport abroad (mars.co.zw). Always filter or boil
drinking water! Zimbabwe has a high HIV-rate, malaria also exists
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Bare north Bowl |
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GPS |
Parking: -16.897072, 31.107253, Routes: -16.892559, 31.112346 |
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Location |
120km north of Harare towards Glendale, left there and 60km to Bari Town |
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Routes |
The Routes are at the steep part of a bowl at the north side of Bare. |
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Park & Approach |
Leave (dirt) Road to drive around south-west side. After crossing a river bed park at a collection of houses and farms. Walk clockwise around Bari until bowl is visible on your right with a huge Slab/boulder on your right hand side. (10 min.) Walk uphill (10 min). |
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Name |
Grade |
Length |
Protection (B=Bolts, Cam=BD Camelot) |
FA |
Description |
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Stembox |
7b |
22m |
9B+2Belay |
A. Schweikart & C. Igel, 12.2017 |
left one of the two obvious offwidth Cracks |
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Wind of Change |
7b/7c |
22m |
8B+2Belay |
Jörg Helfrich, 12.2017 |
Start at the end of Bowl on top of Boulder |
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Banje Pinnacles |
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GPS |
Parking: -16.837117, 31.181607, Crag: -16.849952, 31.181836 |
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Location & Drive |
125km north of Harare towards Glendale, left there and 65km toward Bari, 8km after Bari Junction |
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Routes |
The Routes are at both Pinnacles. |
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Park & Approach |
Park 8km after Bari Town at local Farm close to the Road Pinnacles and Tower visible. Walk through fields on path, later heading straight between Pinnacles. (60 min.) |
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Name |
Full Grade |
Pitch & Grade |
Protection (B=Bolts, Cam=BD Camelot) |
FA |
Description |
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Heart of Darkness |
7a 50m |
1. 30m, 6c+ 2. 20m, 6b |
9B+2 Belay, C4 3+4 2 Belay, C4 0,5-3 double |
J. Helfrich, N.Ohlendorf, 12.2017 |
West Tower: At West side of Tower scramble up towards offwidth |
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Lost & Found |
6c 75m |
1. 35m, 6c 2. 40m, 6c |
1. 2 Belay, 2. 1B + 2 Belay, For both: C4 2x 0,3-3, 1x C4 4-5, medium nuts |
A.Schweikart & C.Igel 12.2017 |
West Tower: Obvious & Perfect Handcrack at west side start on left of small pillar |
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Hedwig |
7b+ or 6b+ A0 195m |
1. 25m, 6c 2. 35m, 6b 3. 25m, 6b 4. 35m, 6c 5. 20m, 6a+ 6. 20m, 6b 7. 15m, 7b+ 8. 20m, 6c+ |
1. 1B, Belay on Tree 2. Difficult move one level up, then trav. left, Belay on ledge (1B) 3. start left, then climb middle crack & trend right 4. up the crack, tricky move in the middle. when on top, old belay on the left, 5. hard (stem) start, belay on ledge 1B+Cam 6. Climb the crack above, interm. belay on1 bolt 7. 6B, tough open dihedral 8. 4B, faceclimb, 2 bolts on top For all: C4 2x 0,3-3, 1x C4 4-6, Rappel the route, link 2+3 and traverse back p2 to tree belay, pull the ropes from here. |
A.Schweikart & C.Igel 12.2017 |
Hedwig starts on the innerside of the left Benje Tower. Easy climbing leads to an obvious, short offwidth (1B, #5, #6). |
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Hambushaba Wall, Matobo NP |
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GPS |
Parking: -20.606878, 28.537389, Crag: -20.607523, 28.535666 |
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Location & Drive |
60km south of Bulawayo through or around NP close to Silozwi School. Details see Access Map.You can park on at the bushline very close to the wall. Talk with the local people. |
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Routes |
The Routes are mainly right of wet middle Part |
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Park |
Park close to forest 100m to Wall(!). Walk path to Wall (5 min.) |
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Name |
Grade |
Pitch & Grade |
Protection (B=Bolts,Cam=BD) |
FA |
Description |
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Baboon Calling |
6c+, 80m |
1. 30m, 6a 2. 30m, 6c 3. 20m, 6c+ |
6B+2 Belay, 4B+2 Belay, 6B+2 Belay, Cam C4 0,4 - 5 |
J. Helfrich, N. Ohlendorf, 12.2017 |
Start in open Corner along two small Holes in 10m height. Then, follow the Crack. |
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Feeling presents |
6c+, 135m |
1. 25m, 6b+ 2. 25m, 6c 3. 35m, 6c+ 4. 50m, 6b+ |
3B + 2 Belay, 2B + 2 Belay, 3B + 2 Belay, 7B + 2 Belay, Cam C4 2x0.3-3 1x 4,6 |
A. Schweikart & C. Igel 12.2017 |
Start on the right in chimney/crack with one bolt, Perfect #6 placement in pot on last pitch, then crux move out of chimney with hidden crimp out right. Abseilanchor 15 m right of last belay. |
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Flat Tyre,
D. Starling, 2015 |
6b+ |
1. 30m, 5b 2. 30m, 6b+ 3. 30m, 6c 4. 20m, 6b+, 5. 40m, 5c,
Full rack of cams and nuts. |
Start at slabby crack to two blocks at the top to belay. Exit belay to the right to pick up a crack system then move back to the left using cracks to traverse. The belay is found above. Exit the belay on the right to find a crack. Before it ends climb left. Continue up until you reach the bottom of a large block which you keep on the left. Leave the belay by right onto the first of three horizontal cracks in gray rock. Move away on the right, on an ascending traverse. Continue traversing, always in ascent, to cross a pillar with delicate moves to belay. Up the vertical crack. When it ends leave to the left to find the next crack, up then at the end of the crack left and into another vertical crack, climb the right to the belay. No belay at the top. |
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No Rain in September |
7a |
1. 45m, 5c 2. 40m, 7a 3. 40m, 6b+ 4. 30m, 6b |
Full rack cam + rocks, 80m single rope or 50m double rope. Cam C4 0,4 – 5, Rocks |
J. Helfrich, 09.2015 |
Left of tree follow bolts and gear (runout) to belay. Follow crack with bolt to vertical crack. Continued slab with three bolt (runout) to second hole. Follow crack to end and with two bolts to last belay. Tricky move and easy scramble to top. |
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Scorpion Ledge |
7a |
1. 30m, 5b 2. 28m 6c (runout) 3. 35m, 7a 4. 40m, 5c 5. Scramble |
Full rack cam + rocks, 80m single rope or 50m double rope. Cam C4 0,4 – 5, Rocks |
M. Hofmann, Derrick Starling, 09.2015 |
Traverse right to enter dyhedral and follow to belay. Follow crack until end, traverse right with bolt onto ledge in to dyhedral to belay. Continue wide crack. Traverse left up and right to last belay |
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Pump Of The Day
(6b A1, 6b obl.) |
7c
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1. 43m, 5c 2. 38m, 7c. |
Full rack cam + rocks, 80m single rope or 50m double rope Cam C4 0,3 – 3, Rocks |
M. Hofmann, J. Helfrich, 09.2015 Fa: L.Genecand |
Start with quarzcrack and follow three bolts to the right until ramp leading to first belay 5m below the green tree. Scrambling up ramp to start of the dihedral. Heavy laybacking with gear to belay. |
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Little Silozwi, Matobo NP |
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GPS |
Parking: -20.624754, 28.577125, Crag: -20.634156, 28.581217 |
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Location & Drive |
60km south of Bulawayo through or around NP to Silozwi School. Continue south toward Silozwi Cave parking |
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Route |
The Route is at a big Boulder in kind of a cave on the way around Mt. Silozwi counter clockwise |
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Park & Approach |
Use Silozwane Cave Paintings Parking and walk around Silozwi counter clockwise along a farmer’s path for about 10 minutes. When path leads down to riverbed, you´ll find the Boulder on the left. (10 min.) |
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Name |
Full Grade |
Lenght |
Protection (B=Bolts, Cam=BD Camelot) |
FA |
Description |
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Jamtastic |
Approx. 8a+ |
15m |
Cam C4 0,2 – 5, Nuts, 2B on Belay |
Open Project |
Fist to Hand to Fingercrack, overhanging |
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Longueville Farm Zebra Crack |
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GPS |
Parking: -20.875694, 28.988511, Crag: -20.876151, 28.986151 |
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Location & Drive |
125km south of Bulawayo towards Gwanda. Drive to Longueville Farm and Contact them before! Private Property and beautiful spot to camp at dam to swim, incl. lots of wildlife. Very welcoming people. 15$/ Night incl. hot showers |
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Park & Approach |
Park beside Main Street to Dam. Walk directly about 10 minutes to Crag, Abseil off Tree for all Routes or scramble down climbers right side (grade II/III) |
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Name |
Full Grade |
Pitch & Grade |
Protection (B=Bolts, Cam=BD Camelot) |
FA |
Description |
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Late Night Show |
6c |
28m |
2 Belay, 1 bolt, C4 1x0,3 - 3, nuts |
A. Schweikart & C. Igel 12.2017 |
Start Chimney by order. for ~5 m then go right, belay on chimney by order anchor |
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Chimney by order |
6c |
1. 25m, 6b 2. 20m, 6c |
Trad + 2 Belay, Trad + Tree Belay For both: Cam C4 2x 0,3-3,1x4 |
A. Schweikart & C. Igel 12.2017 |
Obvious Chimney on the right |
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Mavic Pro |
6c+ |
1. 15m, 6c 2. 25m, 6c+ |
1. Trad + 2 Belay, 2. 2B + Tree Belay For both: Cam C4 0,3-4, nr 5/6 for the start p1 |
A. Schweikart & C. Igel 12.2017 |
Start up a nr 5/6 cam sized crack then into obvious hand crack over a bulge. |
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Variants |
6b |
1-2 |
Top rope from tree |
N. Ohlendorf, C. Igel |
A face climb variation to Mavic Pro and the obvious left leaning chimney in the middle were both top roped. |
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Longueville Farm Playground |
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GPS |
Parking: -20.878280, 28.998021, Crag: -20.877901, 28.996362 |
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Location & Drive |
125km south of Bulawayo towards Gwanda. Drive to Longueville Farm and Contact them before! Private Property and beautiful spot to camp at dam to swim, incl. lots of wildlife. Very welcoming people. 15$/ Night incl. hot showers. At Playground there is a lot of Potential for more routes in any Grade! |
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Park & Approach |
Turn right at Main street after 1,5km continue for 400m. The crag is on your left. Walk directly up to the crag, steep, about 10 minutes. |
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Name |
Grade |
Pitch & Length |
Protection (B=Bolts, Cam=BD Camelot) |
FA |
Description |
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Warthog |
7c+ (29) |
20m |
9B+2 Belay, |
Fa: J. Helfrich, 12.2017 |
Left Edge at main face, start with Boulder Move. Dyno in middle and endurance to Belay |
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Maria |
6a |
12m |
6B + 2 Belay |
Fa: J. Helfrich, 12.2017 |
Slab left of main face through open Corner |
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Amy |
5b |
12m |
2 Belay (Toprope), to be Bolted! |
Fa: J. Helfrich, 12.2017 |
Left of Maria |
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Simba |
6c |
12m |
2 Belay, C4 1-5, Nuts for top part. |
A. Schweikart 12.2017 |
Right of main face start layback at tree and continue on small pinnacle |